Last night was the first of the five day fiesta in Belorado. There were rides set up in the main plaza, main stage for live bands and party goers everywhere. We had a bit of trouble finding a restaurant for supper that wasn't full and a bit away from the racket. We ran into Rhonda the field hockey player from Australia and her friend who said they were eating at their alberque but they had to reserve. Rhonda's friend was also taking a taxi tomorrow, blisters.
We wandered through the tiendas and mercados looking for possible super material without luck. We did run into the couple running our hotel picking up material for our picnic breakfast. With 30km to cover tomorrow we didn't want to wait for the hotel breakfast, and they encouraged us not to because I think they wanted to sleep in after fiesta.
The restaurant we finally went to was at Rhonda's albergue and we had the best meal we have had so far. It was so nice to get something that wasn't dripping in oil. Even though there is always oil and vinegar on the table they insist on drowning your salad in oil. This came with nothing on it and it was such a treat to have only balsamic vinegar on it. The potatoes with the main course were also boiled - so nice other than french fries with your main course.Most of our Camino friends were there.
The hotel we stayed in was away from the action and the only noise we heard were people going home after the bands packed up at 2am! So we were able to sleep with windows open most of the night. The hotel was a beautiful Spanish motif with exposed beams and limestone walls.
We left the hotel at 7:20, in the dark, and passing one bar still playing loud music and right beside the albergue most of our friend's stayed at, it was obvious that the party hadn't stopped all night. There was a guy at the door of the bar selling hot dogs for breakfast, and two girls kissing. Ah youth, I hope they all survived the day. I think there were going to be a lot of people with hangovers in Belorado today. The streets were strewn with broken glasses and beer bottles.
One thing we forgot to mention were the markers every kilometer along the Camino while we were in the province of Rioja. Often information is nice to have on a hike, but this was way too much information and depressing, showing you how small a distance you had travelled in what seemed like such a long time. Luckly, they were a Rioja thing and disappeared when we entered the next province of Castilla y Leon. Except the last marker in Rioja said 555km to Santiago and the first sign in Castilla y leon said 576km. Not much communication between provinces.
The walk today was pleasant. We started out passing through fields of grain and seeing picturesque hills and valleys in the distance. Once again the weather gods blessed us with cool conditions.
One of the first points of interest today was the hermitage excavated out of the rock in the mountains near Tosantos. We passed through numerous small villages where no one was awake, wondering if they had spent the night at the party in Belorado, then stopped for cafe con leche and a pastry at Espinola del Camino. Further on we took pictures at Monasterio de San Felices.
We found a tienda at km 12 at Villafranca and stocked up on water and fruit and other heavy items because there were no more towns until km 24. This turned out to be a tactical error as we were then presented with a long steep climb for the next 6 km. The climb today was accompanied by a beautiful forest on both sides. Nothing like Canadian woods. The sides were covered in what we believe was heather and ferns. At first the forest was Pyrenean oaks, nothing like the holm oaks we saw before. At one point there was a stunning view of the highest peak in Burgos. Lynn warned Russ about wearing his hat and here is the result of not listening.
Further along, the forest turned to pines and near the high point ot today's walk, you reach the Monumento de los Caidos. A stark monument to the fallen caidos of the civil war.
When then made a very steep descent to a footbridge followed by a very steep ascent to the highest elevation of the day. That was followed by a gentle descent to San Juan. As we approached San Juan de Ortega, we had the distinct feeling we were being watched. As we came over the hill, we saw them, "The Guardians of San Juan" with all their faces turned toward us.
Actually we haven't mentioned but we've passed many large fields of sunflowers over the last several days. They are so cheery and friendly looking it is a very welcome sight for a weary pilgrim.
Stopped for lunch and foot airing, sock change at San Juan. We met up with Jack and company who wanted to carry on but many were too weary. Not sure how that turned out. We had no choice because our hotels are all booked, so had to carry on for 6 more kilometres than the guide book recommends for today to get to our hotel in Atapuerca. A walk along a paved, hard, hot road. We passed the prehistoric caves of the earliest human remains, over 900,000 years old. Our feet refused to add the 250 metres to arrange a tour, followed by a two hour visit, something we can do while we are in Burgos.
Today was the longest distance we have covered in one day so far and I thought of the girl who said she loved the feeling of total exhaustion. That was us when we got to our hotel today - totally exhausted.
However, the room has a bathtub, but even better a dish to soak our feet in. The salvos foot soak was heaven!
I did learn my first lesson on the Camino. That is not to allow yourself to be abused in order not to appear rude. I am prepared to suffer for another if they will benefit from it. However one should not be weak and subject themselves to an uncomfortable or time wasting situation if they are just saving someone else's false ego or enabling them to engage in abusive or bizarre behavior. I have a problem extracting myself from these type of situations. I have learned you don't need to justify protecting yourself and abruptly leaving if you want to. Just quietly walk away.
Summary - a nice walk through some varied and interesting landscape. We are starting to get churched out, as every town has at least one, if not several, that are must sees. exhaustedIt is interesting to note that no matter how modern the village appears to be, the church is medieval. The feet and legs are toughening up and so far, all is good. Tommorow's 22 km should be a piece of cake (not likely).
Distance today - 30km
Distance total - 273.5km
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