Day 2 - Roncesvalles to Akretta

Day 2 dawned bright, sunny, but cool (12 C). It would have been nice to get another early start because it was going up to 80 degrees F today, but the economic advantage of partaking of the included breakfast that started at 8am won the day. Breakfast was superb, with a lovely omelet, ham, cheese, buns, spreads, cereal and yogurt, as well as the usual bread and coffee.  Breakfast was consumed and lunch scoffed.  After deliberation it was decided to go with long pants and a warmer top.

Today was supposed to be longer, 28 km, but easier.

We started off at 8:30 and the going at first was easy due to cool weather.  We walked through a forest with some wonderful views that would open up of the mountains and valleys we were passing through.

The scenery was spectacular, made all the more enjoyable by the clear skies and sunshine. Markings continued to be good but there two places where it wasn't that clear. We had started to develop a theory that the orientation of the shells displayed direction as well as assurance you were on the path, but one counter example disproved that.

Very soon we abandoned the long pants and shirts. It was hot.

For lunch today we stopped in the forest and had some Icelandic dried fish and butter and bread heels from breakfast. Delicious!

Just about the time spirits and bodies were flagging, suddenly appears a truck on the side of the road with cold drinks and snacks.  Did that poweraid ever feel great and rejuvinate the spirit.

We met up with the American pair, George and Jack, we had met in St Jean Pied de Port, on the bridge in Zubiri where Martin Sheen's backpack fell off of into the river in the movie "The Way". It seems that by us getting away 10 minutes earlier yesterday and being fairly fast enabled us to miss the rain all the way to Roncesvalle. They apparently got soaked walking through the rain all the way from Orisson.

A lot of pilgrims stopped for the day at Zubiri or went on to Larrosoana (including Jack and George). Our hotel is booked at Akeretta, further on.  A few people were soaking their feet in the river, something we didn't do but in retrospect, should have.

Today met John and Margaret from Tasmania who were interesting to talk to and are staying at our hotel tonight.

After Zubiri the path was in the hot sun and we travelled through an Industrial district (a cement plant) that allowed the camino to cut through. We were both getting very tired feet, and very hot at this point. From the trailer selling drinks to Larrosoana (about 8 km) Lynn drank about 1.5 litres of water. We took a detour into Larrisoana of about 1.6km to go to the tienda because there was nothing in Akeretta except the hotel. You have no idea how physically, mentally, and spiritually exhausting that detour was! However we did run into virtually all of our new camino companions there, including Jack, George, and George's wife and wished them all a good evening.

Today was beginning to be a more spiritual day. Between figuring out backpack placement, new country and figuring out the pace, the mind is still very busy. But there were spots on the path that seemed to glow (the sun shining through mist?) and appeared holy. The trail through the forest shimmers, and the forest floor is covered with leaves and the trees and rocks are covered with moss. It's surreal and divine. We are surrounded by God's beauty, in the forests, the villages, the sweeping views, and the people.

Forgot to mention, last night at dinner we sat with a chap from Vancouver.  When we mentioned we were having our luggage moved around, he commented that "well, you are almost pilgrims"!

Also, the first hymn at the mass was sung to the alternate tune to "Red River Valley".  I fully expected John Wayne to descend and bless the pilgrims.

Summary - a long, hot day, tired after yesterday but the feet are good in the sense that no one has any bisters or other serious foot problems.  Today was supposed to easier than yesterday but seemed harder because of the heat. Lynn has a heat rash, a common hiking problem when camping, and one without any apparent remedy. Aside from a very nasty looking rash it doesn't hurt or have any other side effects so we won't worry about it. Looking forward to a day off in Pamplona.