Sunday 15 September 2013

Day 28 - Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca


We were off at 7:45.  It was to be a fairly gruelling 25.5km and we wanted to get distance behind us before it got hot.

Today's track started out with a 350 metre climb.  Surprise, not.  The view was absolutely magnificant, valleys and forests.  The town looked beautiful in the early light.


Further along we passed what had once been a church, only pieces of wall remaining.


The goal of the day, although not the end point, was the Cruz de Ferro.  This cross, located at almost the highest point of today's climb, is where perigrinos have been depositing a rock, or other token, to a huge pile that witnesses to our collective journey.  We, of course, added our contribution, which Kristine had selected from around the pond in our backyard and which we have been carrying in our backpacks.

It is one of the most magical places on the Camino. History has it that there was once a former cross on a Roman altar in worship of Mercury, the god of the road; the said cross was put there by a hermit who devoted his life to protecting pilgrims on their journey to Compostela.

This may have been the holiest day of the Camino. At Santiago we will be praying to St James to intecede on our behalf, to ask God to grant a wish, or grant a pardon for some sin. But today at the iron cross, when we placed our stones among the heaping pile of stones placed by thousands of peregrinos, our prayer was to God.

We then began our descent, which was greater than our climb out of Rabanal.  We now faced a drop of over 900 metres in 14km. The problem with steep descents is that the large number of perigrinos destroy the vegetation, leaving the soil exposed, which then washes away, leaving only large, smooth cobbles.  A down hill walk is a constant staring at your feet, watching where to next place your foot.  Any attempt to sightsee while walking almost always results in a stubbed toe, which starts to really hurt after awhile.

We went through many towns today, one has no inhabitants except for Thomas, who is considered to be the last 'Templar'. In El Acebo there were the most beautiful wooden balconies.


Then, much to our surprise, a cyclist came up upon us from behind.  His only comment, with a thick British accent, was, "this wasn't very bright".

The thing about this walk is that you can see your destination from 10km, away.  You walk for an hour and it is still just as far away.  Far nicer to have your destination suddenly appear around a corner.

Summary - a very nice day of walking, the up being better than the down.  We are back to magnificent views of mountains and valleys. Possibly the most spiritual day next to Santiago.

Distance today - 24.5km
Distance total - 576km

3 comments:

  1. We enjoyed our dinner out with Kristine and Kristjan last evening and it was fun to be with them again. Ross remarked that the last time he had dinner with them was in China! May your rocks from the home pond begin a new foundation and thank you for sharing this spiritual part of the journey. Good luck with the feet.

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    1. Thanks. My greatest wish is for this Camino to provide a strong foundation for our family. My feet are much better today and I'm hoping all will be fine on the 32 km tomorrow. My biggest problem now is the heat rash which I've been ignoring and has flared up in a big way. But that too will come to pass with several applications of cortisone cream. Wish you were here.

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  2. Stones are good. Blessings on yours and on your Journey. Be well. carol

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