Day 40 - Santiago

When we got to our hotel room yesterday, Russell sat there looking very sad, and said 'I feel like someone let the air out of my balloon'. How many of us with children have watched them having fun with a balloon and then been absolutely devastated when it pops. It happens so quickly and unexpectedly, the noise as it pops is frightening, and they're not prepared for the fun of it all to end so suddenly.

Such is the Way. Although it was very long, difficult, and challenging, it was doubly rewarding. We experienced magnificent views from mountain tops,  peaceful valleys, charming villages, and interesting pilgrims to walk with. We also had manure to dodge, bed bugs to deal with, steep descents to worry about losing control on, and the constant fear of injury. But throughout it all, we had Santiago as our leader and guide, and Christ as our companion.

This morning we had allowed ourselves to sleep in until 8am, but we both slept so well, we were up at 7. That enabled us to be at the Cathedral at 9am when it opened.

We toured the museum and then went to the mass at 11am, where they swung the botafumeiro.

Right after the mass we went to get in the line to visit the sepulcher of St James, followed by hugging the Apostle.

Not exactly the prescribed order of the ritual, but because everyone was watching the botafumeiro, we were close to first in line to visit the sepulcher when the mass finished. The high alter is absolutely magnificent, and a glorius tribute to St James and the millions of pilgrims who have followed his Way. When we had hugged St James and were back in the Sanctuary, the line was right round the church, so that was excellent timing!

We next wanted to visit the Portico, which is undergoing major restoration, but the  noon Pilgrim's Mass was starting, and the Portico was barred. So we visited the Bishop's Palace, and then went to find where we had to be at 9am tomorrow to get on our bus tour. That was followed by lunch, and then back to the Cathedral Portico.

Unfortunately, we couldn't fulfill the rest of the ritual, as it is no longer permitted to place your hand in the Tree of Jesse, the central column of the Master Mateo's masterpiece Door of Glory, which has Christ flanked by the apostles and, directly underneath, St. James sits as intercessor between Christ and the pilgrim. Millions of pilgrims over the centuries have worn finger holes in the marble as a mark of gratitude for their safe arrival (which is why it is now barred).

You also can no longer butt heads with Maestro Mateo on the other side of the column, to receive some of his artistic genius, as he too needs restoration!

The Cathedral visit complete, we visited the Contemporary Art Museum (a complete change of pace to say the least), the Parador Hotel at Santiago, and the Peregrino Museum.  Feet aching, we returned to our hotel at 5pm, to rest.

We were very blessed on our journey with good weather and good timing. Of the entire 791.2km we have reported traversing, 6km was walked in the rain. Absolutely remarkable. And all of the places that have long queues, we arrived when the line was very short! And even though we were unable to complete the pilgrim rituals we had looked forward to, we have felt the healing redemption granted to followers of Santiago.

Summary - today we 'arrived' at Santiago de Compostela.