The room in our pension in Palas de Rei got an OK rating from Lynn as far as a total mattress encasement system went, but that was about its only positive feature.
One glaring problem was that the room was very small and it was filled up entirely with a cot and a double bed. We had just gotten into the room and were taking off our boots when there was a knock on the door and there was the manager (although it took quite a while to figure that out) explaining to us in an interesting combination of Spanish and English that there was a problem with the water in the room we were supposed to have, which was on the other side of the pension and had twin beds. So we had gotten this room, which had a double bed, and since we asked for twin beds, they had brought in the cot - and how did we feel about that? We put our ringed hands together trying to tell him we were married so a double bed was OK and please take away the cot so we would have room to turn around in there. In the end, the cot did disappear.
Unfortunately, it was very hot yesterday (and didn't cool off all night) and our room: had no air conditioning; it was located on a very busy street with traffic zooming by; it was right over the busy main floor bar; the bar had hired a guitarist with a very poor voice who spent the evening until the bar closed at 2am serenading the bar dwellers, many of whom were loudly 'singing' along; all the while the singing was accompanied by the constant and steady breaking of glass bottles being deposited into the on-street recycling bin.
We tried closing the window, but that barely dimmed the noise and we almost died from the heat. Needless to say, we got very little sleep. You couldn't help wondering if we had gotten our intended room on the other side of the pension if that would have been any better? Not likely.
The supper at the hotel was the usual pilgrim's menu, simple but good. Unfortunately, it was so hot that Lynn really couldn't eat anything and felt bad about all the wasted food. We got into a great conversation with a group of pilgrim's from Australia, but the stifling heat in the restaurant was even making that unpleasant.
Once again we wonder how exactly the Michelin guide gets it's contours. The map looked more or less flat for today but we spent all day climbing and descending. The Tee Travel guide did show it as being a hard day. We started out early and there were lots of pilgrims. At the middle of the day we seemed to be ahead of the pilgrim mob, but as the day wore on, more and more pilgrims appeared on the trail. It was rather obvious that many of the walkers intended to get their stamp, walk for a bit, and then cab it to the end point for the day where they would get their second stamp. Oh well, that is their Camino not mine.
One of the interesting items we have been noticing, and is common in Galicia, are the "horreos" or grain storage bins. These are built above ground and were intended to allow grain, particularly corn, to be stored above the reach of rats. While modern agriculture has rendered these superfluous, most houses still have them and new ones are still being constructed.
Today's walk was, as expected, long, hot, and exhausting. But we made it in better time and condition than might have been the case. We're still 'fast' in comparison to your average peregrino.
It actually gently rained today for about 5 minutes. A first for our Camino. It's our 33 day of walking, and we have just about exhausted our mental, physical, and spiritual reserves and are looking forward to finishing this and going home.
We were attempting to fly by an older gentleman pilgrim from North Carolina today on a steep incline who was determined to engage us in conversation, and luckily for all, succeeded. He asked if we knew why we were doing this, and said he had been asking himself this question and thought that perhaps the why would take years to answer. We told him we had been asking ourselves the same question and also expected it would take years to know the answer. He said he had a daughter with bulimia, and had spent years trying to stop blaming himself for her problems. The wheel turns!
And for those who wonder what the walking is like, it is 22km from downtown Ottawa to Kanata. We have been doing that, on average, every day!
Summary - Santiago is in sight, just two more 'easy' days.
Distance today - 30km
Distance total - 756.2km
We were worried about you with the 30 km day and were relieved to hear you arrived safely. We are so grateful for the terrific blogging in spite of exhaustion, itching and needing rest. Prayers and love as you complete the next two days and arrive at Santiago de Compostela.
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